***

DIRE WARNINGS AND THINGS YOU OUGHT TO KNOW
If you choose to email a question to this forum, then you must conduct yourself accordingly. Therefore, the following rules are in order:

1. Do not write your email to me IN CAPS. If you do so, I will print out your question and do terrible things to it.

2. Do not request a personal email response. Since I get thousands of questions each month, trying to answer them all would cut deeply into my leisure time, which I value more than your current state of confusion.

3. Try to spell at least in a semi-correct fashion. If you choose to mangle the English language, expect no mercy from this quarter. You might be mocked severely.

4. Do not ask for me to send you copies of my many manuals and literature. I am not in the library business, nor do I want to spend the bulk of my day at the copy machine just because you're too lazy to ask your dealer, or look around a bit.

5. Don't bother me with truly stupid questions, like how to get 50 more horsepower for a buck and a half

6. Now that you know the rules, think carefully and have at it!

Oh yes … I’ll leave your email unedited, for what it’s worth.

***

SUBJECT: 1974 SUZUKI TS 185

Hey how are you, Im 15 years old and I got this little bike and I want to
make it just a little more powerful and taller. You might be familiar with
the bike its a 1974 ts 185 is there anything that can be done to it that
does not require me to buy a after market hop up kit. And can I change the
suspension from any other bike to my bike to make it taller. I was think'n
maybe like a older honda 250 or something. But I don't know, that's why I'm
asking you so if you have any information I will gladly accept it. And also
if you might know how much hp the bike has stock?
special thanks from first time reader,
Herminator.

What makes you think that there's an aftermarket hop up kit available for a 32 year old trail bike? The Duster (that's what your bike was called) had about 15 HP when new and no doubt it's lost a few ponies over the years. In all honesty, just clean your bike up, keep it tuned and live with it.

***

SUBJECT: ATC 250R RESTORATION PROJECT

Hello Mr. Sieman,
I need some help in finding a shop willing to rebuild my 20 year old motor. Up here in Washington State, no dealer that sells bikes will touch this 3 wheeler (something about the Federal Trade Commission, blah, blah, blah). I tell them that the motor is pulled, drained, crated, and ready to ship, but they still refuse? Most of the smaller shops around here – for whatever reason – don’t want to split the case, or only do top-end/clutches/etc.

Anyway, I’m looking for a complete top and bottom rebuild to bring the motor back to its “factory fresh” standard. If you could point me in the right direction to a quality shop, that would be great.
Many thanks for your time,
Brian in Seattle
1985 Honda ATC 250R

The reason people don’t want to touch your trike is because they don’t want to get sued for putting yet another death trap on the trails. Yes, the three wheeler was the only machine every voluntarily taken off the market … and rightfully so. Your only choice is to acquire the parts and do it yourself. Do yourself a favor and get rid of this pig.

***

SUBJECT: KX 80

Hi Rick,
Love your answers to those stupid questions. 1st a bit of background, I am 55 years old and in the 70's worked in Yamaha and Kawasaki shops. I got out of the bike scene for a number of years. I started riding trails again a couple of years ago. I currently have 2 KDX 200's. They are light years ahead of the stuff available in the mid-70's. I am amazed at the tractor power that works really well here in southern Missouri.

But the size of the 200's make it difficult to teach some basic riding skills to non-riding friends. So I found a real deal on a KX 80. The problem is that it has too much top end power and not enough bottom end stuff. Beginners don't get along very well with it. So instead of asking you how to make more power, I would like to know if there is a easy way to make more low rpm power.
Thanks,
TBo

The easiest way would be to get some KDX parts and make the swap. Actually, you should able to trade parts with someone who owns a KDX 80 and wants more power. Try ebay or craigs list.

***

SUBJECT: 2001 CR 125

Hi Rick,
I'm writing because I just finished a top-end rebuild on my 01 cr125. I was in a race when it went and could not turn it over, it was seized. I replaced piston, rings, and gaskets. I put it all back together and it doesn't work. I have the 3 main ingredients fuel, spark, and compression but it just doesn't turn over. I don't know what else to try, could the bolts not be torqued correctly or what. If so what is the proper torque.

First one or two kicks it made a clank then it just went to normal kicking. I'm sure it had to with top end because I can at least kick it over now but just can't figure out why it wont go. Any help you have to offer would be more then valuable, I'm missing races and don't wanna loose any spots so I need to get it up and running. Thanks for your time was much appreciated.
Keith
New Jersey

Your first clue that all is not well with the rebuild was that “”clank” sound. That tells me that you put the wrong sized piston in, or put the new piston in a warped barrel.

***

SUBJECT: TW200

Diss the TW200 all you want, but it's a great bike. With a few simple
intake and exhaust mods (FMF pipe for a TTR225 and a hole in the
airbox lid) along with a 15 tooth front sprocket and the TW200 will
cruise at 65mph with ease, and will top out at 75mph on level ground.

With the stock knobbies the bike handles like it's on rails on the
street. You can scrape peg and frame and even get a knee out.On STOCK
KNOBBIES. It's no speed demon by any means... but it's fun to ride a
slow bike fast sometimes.

On the dirt, it's more than capable where I ride, which is primarially
forested areas and two-track jeep trails, with a bunch of rocks and
loose sugar sand thrown in the mix. Sure, it can't change direction as
quickly as a skinny-tire dirtbike... but it doesn't have to. It just
bombs over logs, rocks, ruts, anything. It just doesn't care. It goes
over and through instead of picking it's way around. It has so much
traction it handles like a street bike on the dirt. Countersteer and
lean. No spin-the-rear-tire-and-put-a-leg-out. Which made it really
easy for me to learn, since I've been a street rider for 11 years, and
this is my first experience with a dirt bike.

What's more, there is absolutely no way you're ever going to egg a
rim. If my 290lb ass can hit a log hidden on the trail at 40mph and
not damage either rim, it's just not possible to do.

The TW200 absolutely excells at deep sand and big mud bogs. Where my
buddy on his XT225 has to get a running start to go through big, deep
mud puddles or up long steep hills, I just point and shoot. The TW200
has so much traction it just chugs through the mud without getting
stuck, and goes right up any hill. It doesn't doesn't do anything
fast, but it does it, it's reliable, and I can ride it to wherever I'm
going.

I've traded off with my buddy and ridden his XT225, and while I love
the fact that it has 6 gears and more horsepower... I really do prefer
the TW200's handling both on and off road. If Yamaha would bring over
the TW225 they sell in Japan I'd buy a brand new one right now.
Charles.

I'm glad that you dearly love your TW200, but in my opinion they handle like a sticky donut rolling down a flight of stairs.

***

SUBJECT: CHECKERS MOTORCYCLE CLUB ARTICLE

Thanks for the great article!! My Dad was Doyle Fields he passed away when I was 4 years old. 33 years ago. It is nice to see his memory kept alive. Al Baker is my niece’s father and he has passed away also. I have forwarded the link on to my three sisters as well as my mom and my niece. Of course my mom remembers most of these guys. My oldest sister may also. She was the first woman to complete the Barsto to Vegas race. She did it when she was 16 years old.
Thanks!
Carlyn McBride

That particular feature drew a whole lot of email. It’s always good to have memories to bring back those golden years.

***

SUBJECT: 2001 BLASTER
Hey Rick…

I'll try to keep this short…

I have a 2001 Blaster, which I have regrettably not ridden or started in a few months. Surprisingly it will not start now.

A buddy of mine hooked it up to his truck and pulled me up and down the street in an attempt to "roll" start it - it sounds like it's not even trying to turn over. I also poured gas into the spark plug hole and attempted to start it this way - no luck.

The plug is good, the air filter is clean, it seems to have compression, the gas is fine and is getting to the carburetor - but there may be some sort of blockage within the carburetor -- I discovered this after I removed the gas line and attempted to blow into the carburetor.

Question 1: Is it logical that air should be able to pass into the carburetor this way, or is it normal to experience resistance?

Question 2: What is the main reason why a bike will not start after sitting for a while?

Question 3: Does it sound like it could be an ignition or wiring issue?

Question 4: Based on the symptoms, what do you think may be wrong with it?

Sorry about the endless questioning, but I'm new at this and any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark

When any bike or quad has been sitting for a long time, chances are the gas has gone bad and the jets (especially the pilot jet) has varnished shut. Clean the carb jets, drain all the gas, put in fresh plugs and it should start.

***

SUBJECT: WR250 SHOCK

I own a 1991 WR250 and after a brief period in the air the rear shock started leaking fluid mysteriously upon landing. Yamaha has a replacement shock for (only) $730. Is it possible to have this shock repacked rather than replaced? Thanks Rick.
Mark

Why not get your shock rebuilt by Works Performance? It’ll work better and cost a whole less. 818-701-1010.

***

SUBJECT: HELP ON YAMAHA XVS 400

Could you help me with this pls?

I have a Yamaha XVS 400 1998. It has the original carburetor. I understand that I can install a single carburetor that will improve performance. I had tried the web without success.
Thanks and Regards,
Julio Pascual

What part of off-road.com do you not understand?

***

SUBJECT: YAMAHA WARRIOR 350 POST-TOP ENDS PROBLEMS
Dear Sir:

I am fairly thick-skinned so feel free to throw insults my way, just as long as you give your best effort to answer my questions.

I recently re-assembled the top end on a Yamaha Warrior 350 after having the cylinder bored .040" over to fit a higher compression piston (Namura Piston). A new gasket set was used, valves were lapped and adjusted, and the timing chain was properly set during installation. I also installed a Stage 2 DynoJet Carb kit with the correct modifications to the airbox.

The engine runs rich regardless of my jet needle and main jet adjustments (as confirmed by a plug read), throughout the powerband from 1/4 throttle to wide open. I even removed the air filter completely and still observe the same symptoms.

Tonight I noticed that there were two holes poked in the carburetor joint in the rubber portion of the joint. Since I have not run this machine since I purchased it used, I do not know if this problem was present beforehand.

Could the slices / punctures in the carb joint cause this persistent problem? Or would the symptoms more likely resemble that of a lean mixture? What else could cause the symptoms?

I have checked the other jets and systems within the carb itself, and everything appears to be open and adjusted properly.

Recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
Richard J Garcia

The holes in the carb joint are enough to completely ruin the jetting and make anything run lean.

***

SUBJECT: YZ465 PROBLEMS AND SUSPENSION

Hello Super Hunky,
I own a 1980 Yz 465. I bought this bike from a co-worker and I love it. I
was told it has a big bore kit and let me tell you, it has TONS of power. I
have a problem with it, though. I can ride the bike all day long, starting
and stopping and have no problem starting it. When I go to start the next
weekend or day I want to ride, the plug no longer has a strong spark or no
spark at all. It fouls it out virtually every time I ride it. Im running a
B8ES NGK spark plug which is recommended for that bike. I have been told
that the jetting may be running the bike too rich. I don't have a problem
with it running rough, hesitating or backfiring. The bike runs superb. Is the
bike running too rich?

I also have one more question. I'd like to update the suspension. I’m thinking
of some sort of front fork swap. I like the idea of converting over to a
inverted fork system or either a large bore forks with longer travel. What
kind of forks are compatible with the 1981 YZ 465? What is compatible with rear suspension? The bike doesn’t have the Mono-X swing arm, It has the one with the shock that runs all the way under the seat. Is it possible to do a swing arm swap? I know it sounds crazy to put a lot of money on such an old bike, but I love it to death. As far as im concerned you can's beat a big
"two smoke".
That you for you time Super Hunky
Duane

Brace yourself, Duane. Your bike does indeed have the Mono suspension. The shock normally runs under the seat. The 465 is a great bike and you can make the forks better by tuning and oil level. You are definitely running too rich.

***

SUBJECT: STREET STUFF

Hi Rick,
I have a 1983 SUSUKI GS 1100 and for some reason the bike keeps draining the battery on me. have any ideas what it could be also when the bike idles with the choke on it runs fine but when you take it off it stalls.
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Lou

Please refer to the previous answer. What part of off-road.com do you not understand?

***

SUBJECT: CR 300 BIG BORE POWER PROBLEMS

Hey Rick,
I have a 98 CR 250 that I just turned into a CR 300 with a big bore kit. I
am having some problems with the jetting. I live in Idaho Falls, Id and am
at around 5300 feet in elevation. I went up from a 170 main jet to a 182
main jet and I lowered the needle 2 notches. The top end seems to do great,
but low to mid range I don’t have much power. If you know what I can do to
fix the problem, please help.
Thanks,
Archie.

There's no possible way I can tell you what jetting you should run with an aftermarket big-bore kit installed. You should most certainly have asked the maker of the big-bore kit what works, especially at high altitude.

***

SUBJECT: 2001 CR 250

Rick,
I recently purchased a 2001 cr 250 with several mods "Pro Circuit platinum
pipe and silencer, jetted, susp mods etc." My problem is I recently returned
from a ride and discovered that my bike smelled odd "Like burnt trash." I
drained my oil and discovered that it had a greyish hue.

From my younger and 100 lb lighter racing days I immediately recognized it as being water in the oil. I am leaning towards a possible water pump seal problem but I am also being told by my motorhead Harley friends that its normal and that it may be a synthetic oil that tends to turn grey after a while. Can you lend me your expertise in this matter?
Scott

You definitely have water in your oil. If your oil turned gray from wear and tear, then you'd have some real problems.

***

SUBJECT: AN EMAIL FROM CAMBODIA

Dear Rick,
I am writing from Phnom Penh, Cambodia to ask for your word of wisdom and get your priceless advice.

As you are probably aware Cambodia is a dirt poor country, with lots of dirt tracks and roads. I am living in Phnom Penh for a year and want to buy a bike to go and see the temples.

My options, due to my budget are 1998 bikes....they are all priced the same, all about the same condition, as far as I can tell from my brief look in the store....so I need to know which is the best choice.

I am looking at a Yamaha TTR 250, a Suzuki Djebel 250, or a Honda Baja XR 250.

I like the look of the Yamaha and am most tempted by this...what what you recomend?

Cheers for your Help
Luke

All things considered, I would go with the Honda XR. But your final decision would be which bike has a dealer/mechanic/shop close by.

***

SUBJECT: IT 465

Super chunky, I have bought a 1981 IT 465 presently waiting for it to be delivered from interstate. I want to race VMX and i will be converting plastics to yz replicas ( to protect the pristine originals) and need to ask your opinion on: I heard or read that when Yamaha introduced the YZ465 they advised that it could be shifted without clutch at full throttle. Is this true and can i do it to the IT gearbox if i race it in VMX.

I will replace stock reeds with Boyesen's and want to replace the stock pipe with DG ( are there others besides DG) but am not sure to go with the yz DG pipe or go with IT DG pipe. In their website the pipes look like a different shape? is that merely because of side cover differences or is there a frame / tank difference? I will be using another older it tank to preserve the original which is still v good. I would like a slimmer yz tank but cant find one.
Rgds
Tony Browne

While the IT 465 was a good bike, the trans was a bit notchy, especially in the lower gears. I personally would power shift in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. First and second don’t like it. I’d go with the DG YZ pipe. It’ll give you more punch than the IT pipe.

***

SUBJECT: THANKS!

Rick,
Just gotta send you an email! Got back into bikes after 25 years. Used to sit in study hall and read Dirt Bike magazine all through high school til 1974. Always loved reading your articles. Now I'm 50 and doing a resto on a 1980 CR250r and feel like a kid again. Actually I've bought 3 dirt bikes in the last month all because my nephew got a new KX250, thought he needed to know what it used to be like. Plan on doing my first PV race in Moberly, Mo this September.

I have some great memories of the 70's. St.Peters Trans Am in St. Louis was at the top, but none of it would have every happened if it had not been for all the articles that you wrote back then. I was very fortunate to live through what I think was the best era of motorcyle history ever!

Thanks for doing what you did, its great to see that you are still at it. From some recent google searches sounds like you haven't changed a bit! Good for You!!
Garry in St.Louis a BIG Rick Sieman fan

Sincere thanks for the kind words. Yup, I’m the same guy; just busted up and limping a bit more from wear and tear from the years.

***

SUBJECT: DIRT BIKE VIDEO

Rick,
Years ago when Dirt Bike was a real mag (when you were Editor) I bought a video on how to ride Dirt Bikes.

Do you have a copy for sale? Do you know where I can get one?
One of my old girl friends kept it for her kids and I never make a copy.
Please help if you can, that was a great tool.
Thanks
Robert Shannon

Hmmm, wish I had a copy myself. Let me know if you run across one.

***

SUBJECT: ANOTHER EDITOR?

Hey Rick,
On of my dreams is to work with you as a co-editor. I know it's a pipe dream, but I think I could help out in your Don't Ask column, especially if you're caught in a time squeeze.

Here's a sample:
SUBJECT: NEED HELP DIRT BIKE WONT TURN OVER
Hey i have a 96 Honda WR200R Dirt bike. For the past couple of weeks i have been toying with it trying to get it to turn over, but it just wont. I checked the fuel, cleaned the air filter, threw a new spark plug in there and nothing. Can you please help me out.
Must appreciated,
Jordan C.

No wonder it won't turn over. Honda doesn't make a WR200. But Yamaha does. Dumb question number 3 this month.

TW: Even if you meant an XR200 it doesn't matter. If it won't turn over, it's siezed. If it turns over, but won't start then that's any number of other problems. First get a little mirror and slide it in between the head and tank sorta back by the carb. Get some good light in there so you can see what's going on. Now aim the mirror down, then up and then back towards your face. See the problem yet? (duh).
Hope all's well.
Todd Washburn

Not bad, not bad at all. If I retire, you’re next.

***

SUBJECT: FOUR STROKE PROBLEMS

Rick,
I read with great interest your reply a few months ago about the
reader that complained about his CRF450R with the trashed top end. You
indicated that the new four strokes had works like
characteristics--including a short fuse- as far as life span is concerned.

Does this extend to European bikes too? As a long time reader of Dirt Bike
I've always understood that European bikes (Husky, KTM, ect.) lasted a lot
longer due to their superior metals and forged (instead of cast) pistons.
My 1983 250WR with 2000+ miles on it still has the original piston and bore.

Now, I realize that this bike has had an extremely pampered life as far as
hard use is concerned, and the aforementioned CRF probably was thrashed to within an inch of its life. However, would a guy that bought a KTM 450EXC and exposed it to a moderate dose of trail riding be farther ahead than his buddy that bought a CRF450X? Even further, how about an air cooled XR400R compared to that same 450X? As expensive as bikes are today, should we expect more out of them, or less?
Craig Fox

The racing four strokes of today are horribly expensive to maintain. Bikes like the XR 400 are very reliable. Euro racing four strokes are a bit more reliable than the Japanese bikes, but the parts are much more expensive. If you plan on riding/racing a typical new four stroke and ride every weekend, you can expect to spend between 7 and 10 thousand dollars a year to maintain it. Progress? I think not.

***

SUBJECT: KAWASAKI BAYOU 250 DRIVEN UNDER WATER...HELP PLEASE.

Dear Rick,
My 10 year old drove his 2005 four wheeler into the creek, deep into the creek. He walked home and we had to pull it out. It was completely submerged. I have now drained the oil, which contain a lot of water. Changed the oil filter, drained the gasoline. I have no idea what else I need to do. I would appreciate any advice you can give me on what needs to be done, aside from taking the keys away. Thank you,
Steve Luetkemeier

Drain the carb, take apart all the electrical system and make sure the connections are dry, clean the air filter and change the oil a few more times after the ride the quad. That should do it.

***

SUBJECT: THIS MAY SEEM LONG BUT …

Hey Rick,
I have a question for you. I don't have the manual on my bike but I don't think it's going to help me answer this question. I just bought a 1999 Kawasaki KX 250. The only problem with it is, that when ever I first start the bike and I want to pinn it all the bike does is bogg. It does it through first and second gear sometimes third and then finally clears out. After that the bike runs awesome. I had asked a couple of people about it and they said they don't know.

I put a brand new top end on it. I checked the powervavles to see if the work and they do. Sometimes the bike will run reall rich and then it will run great again. I tried changing the jets a couple of times and nothing happens. Everybody says it sounds like my low speed jet. It had a 62 in it and I tried a 60,58,and now a 55. Am I going the right way with the jets or do I have to go up. I am going crazy trying to figure it out. So if you could just help me out that would be awesome.
Thanks,
Fred C.

What makes you think your manual won’t help? In there, you should find the correct jetting numbers. Just changing the pilot jet because your friends say so, isn’t the answer. Without seeing your bike, I’d guess that the bike has a tired top end.

***

SUBJECT: CLUTCH SLIPPING

I have a 2002 Yamaha TT-R 125L and when I get into 4th gear the clutch starts to slip. Is there a way to adjust it so it doesn't?
SK

If your bike doesn’t slip in the lower gears and just starts to slip in the taller gears, then your clutch needs fresh plates. It’s not a matter of adjustment.

***

SUBJECT: PREMIX SWAP

Hi Rick,
Hope you can help me, I'm restoring a 74 DT 360 A for VMX so I've removed the autolube tank and pump so I can save weight and I'd like to run my own pre-mix, I've removed the worm drive shaft between the crank and pump. What I need to know is there anything else I need to do other than capping off the hole thats there now ?, is there any thing inside the engine thats going to fall off like a gear or somthing?
Greg

Nope, you’re doing everything right. Just make sure that there’s no leak when you cap the hole up.

***

SUBJECT: RT180

Hello,
I have a 1993 RT180 that was given to me by a friend. He had just had it bored over and had new piston and rings installed. Prior to this the piston had seized in the cylinder. I have gotten the bike to run but it will not rev very well (even with no load) and seems no matter how I adjust the carb it does not affect the way the bike runs.

I know this is not the most powerful bike ever made but I would like to get out of second gear. The bike starts to miss and stumble at about 1/4 throttle. So far I have replaced and adjusted the needle booth up and down (it looked worn on the end) no change. Replaced carb with another used carb, no change. Had dealer check stator, said source coil was bad so I replaced it, no change. Thought maybe the exhaust was plugged up so I replaced that, no change. Tested with another known good CDI and no change. Reed cage looked like the rubber coating had been damaged causing the reeds to leak so I replaced the cage and reeds. No change.

I thought perhaps it was sucking air somewhere and tried spraying starting fluid and WD-40 all around the carb and cylinder base but neither affected the way the bike ran. I thought it might be bad crank seals but it seems that the clutch cover and the stator cover gaskets (both new) would prevent any air from being sucked into the cylinder. Am I missing something? I have a Clymer manual and it has been helpful and I am good with a wrench, but I am at a loss here. This free bike is costing me a fortune. Anything that would steer me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much,
BEN

You’re assuming that your friend did a top end job, and even if he did, was the job done right? Failing the timing being grossly off, it gives every indication that the top end is wasted.

***

SUBJECT: 1992 DR650 KICK START

I just purchased a DR650 92" non elec. start and was wondering if you have any tips to start this thing ? Hasnt ran yet since ive had it . Went through carb and little things here and there. It has so much compression and not sure when and where to use the comp relese.It has good spark to both plugs. "the 3 elements to make a running engine gas,comp & spark"
Any help would be great.
Thanks Tim

To use the compression release properly, get the bike to Top Dead Center, then squeeze the comp release and give the kickstarter a gentle push, taking piston JUST A BIT PAST TDC. Then give a solid kick with NO THROTTLE and the bike should start.

***

SUBJECT: XR-250 SUSPENSION MODS

First, am very glad to see your column again.I used to read your stuff in borrowed Dirt Bike magazines when I was a teenager.Now for my question.I ride a 1998 XR-250R which I like a lot.There are,however,a couple things I'd like to have improved upon.One is the suspension.I plan to have the forks and shock re-valved but was wondering if the forks from a 1989 CR125 or 250 would give me more adjustability and if this swap would be practical.I've checked what sources I have available and have found that both my bike and the CR's use the same steering head bearings.Please let me know.Thanks so very much in advance for any help you could provide. Sincerely
Joey Crotwell
Monroe.La

The swap should be an easy one. Refer to my CRF 230 Project Bike series for info on how to do it.

***

SUBJECT: ALL PLUGGED UP

hey i have a 1989 honda cr 125, it starts ok, but when u crack the throttle wide open it bogs. ( i bought this second hand or third hand)so we took the engine apart and the cylnder and head were plugged with silicone. also my rads i think are plugged cuz when u try to blow through it u can't and u can see silicone plugged in between the cooling fins what should i do thnx.
Rob cook
white river ,ontario

It sounds like someone went nuts with a bucket of silicone seal. Your best bet is to take the entire engine and cooling system apart … completely apart … and find out why the silicone seal was there in the first place.

***

SUBJECT: 82 CR 480 STARTING

Hi,Rick
I have a 1982 cr480, and as you would expect im having alot of
trouble starting it. so i was going to use a higher octane gas in the mix,
but my friend said that it would ruin my rings after a couple of rides
eventhough i only trail ride. so then one day i was wondering if i could use
some of that easy start spray when its cold, but my other friend said that
it would ruin the whole top end. so i was really wondering if i can do any
of this, and what it would do to the life of my ring and piston? i know its
a big bore bike but it takes me like 10-15 minutes of kicking to get it
started when cold?
Moe Saltel

Your friend is dumber than a parakeet. Using high octane gas will not harm your engine in any way. Using a starter spray is dangerous, in that you could bend a rod. Your bike is a hard starter and requires a serious kick. It'll start best if the timing is right on, jetting is correct and a fresh plug is installed.

***

SUBJECT: YZ PLUG PROBLEM

ok i have a yz125 2003 model and it never used to fowl spark plugs and now in the past week i have gone through 4 spark plugs, but its burning the tips off the spark plugs. when i first start it, it runs fine for about 5 minutes and then after that it will just die and i dont know why its doing that now. soo what do i need to do or what should i do?
LongHornMan

My best guess is that you have developed a big air leak (blown gasket, etc.) and you’re running horribly lean. Take a look at one of the wasted plugs and see if it’s whitish. That should be your clue.

***

SUBJECT: WRONG GEAR OIL FOR MY CR500?

Dear Rick,
I own a 1985 CR500R dirt bike which i bought a few months ago. I put about 5 hrs of riding on the bike and decided to put an FMF Narly pipe on it. When i Brought the bike home from getting the pipe installed and carb jetted It ran great! It felt like it had alot more low end and mid range power and everything seemed all good. The Mechanic told me since i just bought the bike and since it is used i should change my transmission fluid. He said he is a retired Motto Cross racer and the best oil to run in my bike is Bel Ray 80W Gear oil.

My question is this, I bought the Bel Ray gear oil from him but didnt change my oil right away. I went riding for a few hrs after picking the bike up and then when i got home I drained my oil and then added the Bel Ray. After about 30 minutes of riding with the new oil the clutch seemed like it was slipping bad. Before i changed the oil i could pull the front end up in all 5 gears easily! Now when i hit powerband it revs real high but has no pull? It seems like it was fine till the engine warmed up, I checked my owners manual and it says to use 40 WT motor oil But the Mechanic told me that was good for back in 1985 but now there is much better oil to use like Bel Ray.

Do you think The gear oil i am using now could be whats causing the clutch to slip? Should i drain the fresh Bel Ray oil out and Just use some good 40WT motor oil like the manual suggested? Also If you add to much or less oil in the motor will that also cause it to slip? Thanks Rick Your the Greatest I Read your columns daily and you amaze me at times at how you can answer some of these crazy questions that people send in. I hope your having a good Summer,
Thanks for your time,
Jerry from Jersey

It looks like your clutch is starting to go south. Hey, your bike is over 20 years old and things will need replacing every now and then. The Bel Ray gear oil is good stuff.

***

SUBJECT: KTM PLUGS

Hi Rick,
I feel a bit of an idiot asking such a trivial question... but I need help.

I have just bought an '84 KTM 125MX as a restoration project and I was well on my way until I hit a slight problem.
As I understand it, the 125MX uses a Bosch 340s2s spark plug, a plug which I can't find anywhere. (hence the problem)

Do you know what the NGK, Bosch or Champion 'modern', equivalent plug is? As I'm getting conflicting advice from different sources and I don't really
want to fit the wrong plug to my beautifully rebuilt engine.

I'd be very grateful if you could solve my problem as it's the only thing
stopping me from riding this thing.
keep up the good work, and thanks in advance.
Regards
(a very stationary) Chris

Use an NGK B9 or a Champion N2 or N3. Make sure the reach (length) is the same.

***

SUBJECT: DIRT BIKE QUESTION

Rick,
I have not ridden dirt bikes in over 20 years. I am 40 years old with a son of 6 years old who I want to get into dirt/dessert riding (29 Palms), like my dad did for me. I am shopping for a couple of dirt bikes, father and son combo, but the other day he mentioned buying a quad, which through me for a loop. They did not have quads when I grew up, we had the tri's.

Do you think a quad father son combo would be better than dirt bikes? I have heard stories about quad safety, any truth to them?

What father son combo would you recommend either way?

I am 5'11 260 lbs, how much bike do I need? Can I get away with Honda's 230 CR? or better yet 450??
Thanks,
GEL

I wouldn’t get a quad, especially if you learned on dirt bikes. Get a pair of KDX 200s and you’ll be happier ever after. At your weight, the CRF 230 won’t cut it, unless you do a bunch of suspension mods. If you opt for the CRF 450, be prepared to spend a small fortune on rebuilds all the time.

***

SUBJECT: FALTA CZS

Hey Rick,
Would you happen to know approx how many CZ 250 Falta Replicas were produced?
Regards,
Eric K. Taser

I’ve heard that the entire production run was a bit less than 5000 units.

***

SUBJECT: BLASTER

my 2000 Yamaha blasters kick start wont kick do you know what's wrong if you do call 608-******* janesville WI
Shot

It won’t start because you are too stupid to include any usable information with your email.

Subject: Re: (no subject)

I am reporting you to the police and is this how you treat all
your "almost" customers and I am 15 and asked
a question and you replied so crappy … ***hole
Shotawhitetail

I received this fearsome email shortly after replying to the above bonehead. I’m waiting for the black helicopters to arrive.

***

SUBJECT: XR250 OILING PROBLEM

Rick,
I just bought a 1989 xr250 that really runs great. My son is 14 and loves the bike. It came with no manual and yesterday after some hard riding I noticed oil coming out of the air box! I then removed the oil fill cap and oil actually spilled out as if it were too full. I’m not sure if the person I bought it from overfilled it or if I have another problem. I want to change the filter and
the oil, but am not sure how much oil it should take. Can you help me out with this? I appriceiate it.
Dale Everett

Why don't you just change the oil and filter and see how much oil comes out of the engine? The XR uses about two quarts of oil but the reading is often low when using the dipstick. By the way, get a manual. It ain't hard.

***

SUBJECT: STUCK SWINGARM PIVOT BOLT

Chunk O Hunk,
Thanks for your previous answers to my questions on the IT465H. The restoration is coming along well except for two issues. Issue one: siezed swingarm bolt. ( it's that siezed that belting it with a hammer will only mushroom it over) any suggestions? maybe drill it out. Issue 2 : whether to replace the big end bearing and mains , if it is within acceptable tolerances should I replace them anyway? If not then I don't need to remove the swingarm bolt just yet. Also is there a rule of thumb as to how many cylinder rebores the mains and big end will last?
Rgds
Tony Browne


Wow, you’ve got a real job on your hands. You’re going to have to strip the bike down to the frame, grind the mushroomed part of the swingarm bolt off, and then press the stuck bolt out with a hydraulic press. I’ve had to do this, and it’s no fun.

***

SUBJECT: HONDA 125 CR

do you have a step by step on how to reassemble a 125cr from 1983 my brother broke my bike and now we cant get it back to gether.
thank you for your time.
carl wilder

Oh, well I better get busy and zerox a whole manual and send it to you. Will overnight shipping do?

***

SUBJECT: RM PISTONS

Rick,
Have you ever heard of anyone using Maico Pistons to replace the 2nd oversize Piston of a 79 RM 400 N.
The Suzuki Pistons only went to Second Over (mine is on Second over already. And if you Have,is there much Work in Making them Fit.
Any Help would Greatly Appreciated
Russell Bentley (Aus)

I’ve heard this is a fairly common replacement, but have never done it. Your best bet is to match the Maico piston to the RM and take it from there. A visual inspection should do it.

***

SUBJECT: SMALL BIKE = BIG PROBLEM

Dear Rick,
When I was a kid growing up in the 80's, I owned a 1984 aircooled CR 60. Today I am am quite too big for the bike, but i have a nephew that is about 8 going on 9 years old. I thought this would be a great birthday present. I have worked on bikes all my life. When I outgrew this bike I retired it into my basement. I remember right before i put it into storage it blew up. I seperated the head from the base and found that the ring was burnt into on the exhaust side.

At the time I thought no problem. When I went to get the cylinder bored and matched for a new piston they gave me nothing but bad news. They discontinued every part to this bike. I can't find diddly squat. WISECO doesn't even make a piston for this bike. I thought this was kinda rare. I loved this little bike as a kid, and I would hate to not see it get passed on to my nephew for his birthday. I would be very appreciative if you could help me find a piston for this bike. The only route I have found is to have one machined through a place like ROSS.
Thanks,
Ed

Go on ebay motors and you’ll find numerous sources for the piston.

***

SUBJECT: OLD TRUMPET

Rick,
I have a chance at a 1974 Triumph Trophy Trail 500 for around 2500. Said to be running good but are parts sources out there for this early of a bike. It's a nostalgia thing because I had a Tiger Cub while overseas (during 61/62) and I loved it.

Is this the kind of machine that someone could restore and ride with little problems?
Thanks,
Phil

You should have no trouble at all finding parts for this bike. It’s a reliable machine, electrics aside.

***

SUBJECT: KX 80

hi
i have a 1989 kx 80 and my brother gave it too me but unfortunatly he doesn't know the petrol oil mix he thinks 30-1 would do it is this ok or will it hurt my bike?
Many Thanks
Carl Green

What kind of a bike do you think your bonehead brother gave you if he had no idea of what the premix should be? Jeez! For what it’s worth, 32:1 is good safe ratio.

***

SUBJECT: 98 YZ250

Hi Rick,
I have a 98 yz250 and the thing eats plugs everyride. I adjusted the carb leaner until the plug is dry and tan coloured but the next day when I ride it fouls right after it's started. I'm not babying the bike at all and it runs great when it starts. Any help would be great. Thanks
Dtbs

Check for a leaking crank seal. That would foul an otherwise clean running bike, especially after sitting a period of time.

***

SUBJECT: IT175

i need to know what kind oil goes into the front forks for a 1982 it175j
Gale

Gee, you don’t think that fork oil might work, do you?

***

SUBJECT: LIGHTER ROLLING FRAME

I HAVE A 1982 XR 200 AND WANT TO CHANGE MY FRAME THE OLD STEEL FRAMES ARE HEAVY I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS LIGHTER ROLLING FRAME I COULD USE
KIND REGARDS DARYN

What do you think your bike is worth? $500 to $700? What do you think a new aluminum frame would cost? Thousands! Do the math. And quit sending emails in CAPS.

***

SUBJECT: ANTI FOG

Hey Rick,
Thanks for the tips on fogging. There's one you might want to try /
add to the list. Shaving cream - the $.99 colgate foamy stuff from
the can. rub it on and wipe it off (the more you use, the harder it
is to get clean). Works great and even keeps my bathroom mirror from
fogging in the steam for months at a time.
Best,
Josh

Excellent tip, Josh. We'll pass it on to the readers.

***

SUBJECT: ANATOMY OF A SCAM

Hello,
I realize that this article may not be very recent, but I wanted to express my
gratitude for it being posted. I personally was scammed by that EXACT same person. Unfortunately, as a naive college student, I went through with theprocedure and lost all the money I saved for tuition. People like this so
called David Martins make it hard for us to trust one another.

I would love nothing more than to see justice served as he has most likely
scammed many other innocent individuals. If there is any progress on his
case, I would like to know. Even though I contacted the FBI after my
incident, they seemed very unconcerned about my problem. They explained that my only option was to file a complaint. There has to be more action that can be taken against this criminal and those like him.

Though I know that taking such action does not fall in your jurisdiction, I
would like the author of the article, Rick Sieman to know that I greatly
appreciate him publishing this. And that I would like to contribute to
finding and prosecuting this David Martin.
Regards,
Dara

We’ve done several pieces on the scammers out there, including Matt Cuddy’s excellent piece in the July issue of ORC.

***

SUBJECT: KX 125 PROBLEMS

hey i have a 1993 kx 125 and it keeps leeking coolant when i start it,ride it,and even a little after i stop it, it is leeking from the over flow tube even thow the coolant is at the correct level. It would be great if you could get back to me and tell me whats wrong and what i have to do to fix it!
Thanks For Your time
Carl Reimer

I suspect a leaking head gasket. And it’s Mister Hey to you.

***

SUBJECT: 84 CR500

Hi Rick,
I am in the UK and have just bought a 1984 CR500. I have been advised that the Air cooled CR500 was made for 1 year only. (1983 @ 480cc and 1985 went LC)

Does this make the bike more sought after, or worthless? I am fully rebuilding it and not sure how far to go – so far the following is underway/planned…

Conrod Kit – Honda genuine parts because I could not locate an after market kit. (it dropped a circlip from the piston and chewed the thrust washer)

All new bearings and seals, small end, mains and gearbox. (most did not feel smooth). Acid bathed casings, head and barrel, few minor alloy weld repairs. Ready for fresh heat proof paint. Light hone to the bore and new piston rings. New clutch plates.

All of this has pushed the money outlay up as you can imagine, (bearing in mind here in UK things are overpriced!) so far approx £300 in parts and engineering. Plus £340 paid for the bike.

Should I stop here and run it as a novel hack or go for full strip down, powder coat the frame, new piston, suspension service etc.etc.etc.
I really appreciate any time you put into replying.

(P.S. I have recently been asking about one of your least favourite bikes – the 490 Yam and hope this is a better choice!)
Daniel

The fact that it’s air cooled doesn’t make it particularly rare. It’s not uncommon to spend around $3000 US to revive an old bike. I’d just paint the frame with a regular old spray can and enjoy it as is.

***

SUBJECT: 1980 YZ 250

Dear Super hunky
I am the proud new owner of a 1980 yamaha yz 250 G.My question to you is what weight of oil should I use for summer use.Would a 20-40 be too thin?Also what would the gas/oil mixture be 20:1?What's your thoughts on the 1980 yz 250?
John Wray

I would use a 20-50 oil in the trans all year round and change it after every ride. That’s what I did with mine for the entire year and never had a problem. The 1980 YZ was a great bike, with a six-speed gearbox, light weight and good power. The 1981 version lost a gear and gained 15 pounds of pork.

***

SUBJECT: POCKET BIKE

HI my name is eddie my son has a super pocket bike and he would like to ride this bike but there is no where to ride where i live can you please tell me of a race track or some to ride it's just a wast of money for these bikes.
my son loves to ride but he can't ride anywhere please help
THANK YOU
Edwin Cruz

Bottom line? The pocket bikes are pieces of crap and the reason that there’s no place to ride them is because they’re ill-handling and dangerous. Sorry if I sugar-coated it too much. Get your son a real bike.

***

SUBJECT: WHICH BIKE?

Rick,
Several years ago I took up VMX (novice +50), my first exposure to
racing. Based on criteria I provided you suggested that a 73/74 Yamaha
MX250 would be a good, reliable bike. I took your advice and raced an
MX250 for several years. After taking some time off I am back to racing
the same bike. It turned out to be a good choice, thanks!

Once again I would like your advice on another bike. In addition to VMX
I plan to ride the Post VMX +50, soon to be +60. Alas, I am still a
lowly novice. I am thinking I would like a late 70's early 80's 250,
something good handling, reliable, torquey and reasonable availability.
What alternatives should I consider? Is there a specific Japanese bike
that stands out from the others?

Thanks for what I know will be sound advice.
Sincerely,
Bob Sisco

I would seriously consider a 250 Maico, a 76 or 77 with the laydown shocks. This is an absurdly easy bike to ride. It goes straight, turns like magic and has a superb suspension. As long as you keep an eye on the primary chain, it's very reliable and parts are easily available. There are faster 250s out there, but none as friendly to ride.

***

SUBJECT: FOLLOW UP

Rick,
Thanks for recommending the 1976-77 Maico 250/5 AW. I have done a
little internet research. The period articles I could find confirm your
recommendation. My only concern is that an example will be both hard to
find, here in the Midwest. All of the bike and part sources seem to be
on the west coast.

On the other hand Japanese bikes are easier to find. I have rebuilt
both Yamaha and Suzuki Vintage and Post Vintage bikes and have been able
to source parts locally. Do you have a late 70's early 80's Japanese
MX250 you would recommend for a +50 Novice? As I said in my previous
note I am more interested in something with good handling, decent
suspension, (I will use Works Performance Shocks), a nice wide power
band and reasonably reliable. In addition to motocross the bike will
also see some Hare Scramble use too.

Thanks for your time and any advice. I respect your opinions!
Sincerely
Bob Sisco

If you want a good Japanese bike of that period, I'd suggest a 1980 YZ 250. It has great power, decent suspension and a six speed gearbox. Stay away from the 1981 model.

***

SUBJECT: TT5-230 FRONT END

Hey rick i really enjoy youre column its funny and has god info but now ive gotta question i recently got an TTR-230 and me being at the humble age 15 have a question....what is a good fix for a tweaked front end every now and then i dump the bike and always i tweak the front end ive been fixing it the "worng" according to a freind which is puttin the front tire between ut legs and twisting like there no tommorrow in the appropiate direction is this proper or amm i gonna ruin my front end? any help would be much obliged
ps Ur Crf 230 project bike modifications work great on the ttr 230 ...my father also has done them on his crf as well ...no complaints

Thanks alot
Wilson

Actually, the way you’re tweaking the front end back into line makes sense. Since the front end has already been tweaked, there’s nothing else you can do, short of putting a set of decent 43 mm forks on the bike like we did on the Project CRF 230.

***

SHAMELESS PLUG
Sitting right here in my well-lit office is a small number of the very first issue of Dirt Bike Magazine. They're in mint condition and ready for the collectors out there. Cost is $150, including shipping, and each issue of Volume 1, Number 1 comes autographed by the editor - me. This makes the ideal gift for someone who enjoys living in the past.

Here's the source:
Rick Sieman Racing
4492 Camino de la Plaza #1251
San Ysidro, CA 92173
Check or Money Order OK - No plastic
Order one today and keep me from a life of crime