Mining is what opened up the Mojave Desert to modern man. If it weren't for the combination of mineral riches and gold fever we might not have this vast playground to ride and explore. Incursions by Spanish Missionaries found this part of California to be rough and inhospitable. The Mojave Desert was seen as a barrier to overcome by early travelers and settlers. The earliest trails across this vast expanse were developed by Indians. These trails went from spring to spring across the desert. Today, the few highways and railroads that cross through this territory still roughly follow those early trails.

Between 1860 and about 1920 constant new discoveries of gold, silver, copper and borax fueled continuous rushes to the latest strikes. As these strikes were developed, exploited, and eventually played out, communities sprang up to support these operations and most died shortly after the mineral riches were no longer easy to access. In many cases these ghost towns were nothing more than memories on the desert floor as buildings and equipment were commonly moved to the next area of promise.

Because mining required movement and processing of large quantities of ore, railroads were built across the desert to move ore and bullion to processing facilities and to bring in materials and supplies to continue the building of mines the towns that supported the mines. Most of these were short lines that met up with transcontinental lines that passed through the Mojave. Today, little remains of these railroads except for raised roadbeds running across the desert and the occasional railroad tie or telegraph post. The advent of reliable trucks and automobiles meant the end for these expensive dinosaurs.

While railroads may seem like something of relative permanence, the need for steel to fuel the American war effort during WWII was the death knell for the short lines of the Mojave. While many of the abandoned rails had been pulled up and put to use in other areas prior to the war, those remaining at the onset of WWII were quickly removed and put to use for the war effort. The removal of these rails was also a signal that many of the areas once served by the short lines no longer held anything other than historical value.

Even the roads that had supplanted the rails would eventually be bypassed as the National Highway System developed and reliable routes across the Mojave were built. These new highways took the shortest path across barren desert, which meant that many small communities on the old roads would suffer the same fate as the early mining camps. In addition, the small communities that were developed by the railroads every ten to twenty miles to support the needs of steam engines were made unnecessary by the development of diesel-electric engines. Reliable sources of water were no longer required to keep the steam engines running, and these communities too went into quick decline.

What we are left with today are places with names like Ludlow, Stedman, Danby, Amboy, Klondike, Rasor, Crucero, Baker, Barstow, and countless others. While a few of them were fortunate enough to be spared by the path of progress, most of them are nothing more than shells of their former selves. Some of them are nothing more than a few cement slabs, and others are so completely obliterated that nothing remains other than names on old maps.

The significance of this for modern off-roaders and desert explorers is that we are left with a wealth of historical sites that are far off of the beaten path and difficult to access without modern off-road vehicles. These are not places where you go to race with your buddies, but rather places where you go to take your time, see the sites, discover old routes, and appreciate the toughness and perseverance of our ancestors who suffered the hardships of westward expansion. This doesn't necessarily mean that the riding will be easy or that you won't find challenges. But it does mean that you must be respectful of these areas and stay on designated roads.

Because many of these sites were developed through mining, it is also imperative that you take appropriate precautions. It is advisable to always be on the lookout for mine shafts and cave-ins. Resist the urge to get too close to these features and enjoy them from a distance. Mine shafts can be up to a thousand feet deep and many are vertical. Old timbers and wooden ladders have given their strength to years of desert heat and dry air and are just waiting to collapse. If you see a pile of dirt or tailings on a hillside always be aware that the dirt you see came out of a hole somewhere. Resist the urge to ride up these piles of dirt. There are almost yearly occurrences of motorcyclists riding over and falling into mineshafts. http://www.desertmines.com/news/111704.html Don't become a statistic.

The Alvord Mine is one of the easiest historical places to access in the entire Mojave Desert. Situated North of I-15 and East of Barstow in the Alvord Mountains, thousands of people pass by each day on their way to and from Vegas without realizing the amount of history contained in the nearby hills.

The Alvord Mine sits in a geologically rich area. It was first mined from 1885 to 1891 by the Carter Gold Mining Company of Pasadena, CA. At that time the ore was hauled to a 5-stamp mill at Camp Cady on the Mojave River, which is due South of Alvord Mine across the current path of I-15. It was reopened from 1906 to 1910 and operated by the Alvord Gold Mining Company of San Diego, CA. This group installed a 6-Nissan stamp mill at the mine site as well as a crusher, amalgamation plates and cyanide tanks. From 1916 to 1920 the Tintic Bonanza Mining Company of Salt Lake City, UT operated the mine, and finally the property was purchased by F.G. Dellosso in 1925. The Delosso Mining Company was formed and six claims were patented in 1931. The mine was closed soon after and never reopened.

The Alvord Mountains themselves are also a geographical anomaly. The small mountain range sits between two faults and is slowly rotating as the faults pass each other. Of course, this rotation would be measured in millimeters per year, so don't expect to be impressed.

When you see this you are in the right place.

The mine is accessed from Alvord Mountain Road, which has an overpass over I-15, but has no onramps or offramps. To get to Alvord Mountain Road, take the I-15 East out of Barstow. The next community you will come to is Yermo. You pass through Yermo and take the Harvard Exit from I-15. Go right (South) at the stop sign, then take a left (East) onto Yermo Road. Yermo Road parallels I-15 on the South side of the Interstate. As you head East on Yermo Road, the next overpass you come to will be Alvord Mountain Road.

If you go just a bit beyond Alvord Mountain Road, you will be able to see the underpass that the military uses to run tanks and other armored vehicles out to Fort Irwin for Desert Combat Training. Along the railroad tracks in this area you can also see the siding that is used to load and unload these vehicles.

If you see this you've gone too far, but you should take a look anyway??your tax dollars at work.

To access the Alvord Mine site, take Alvord Mountain road over the I-15 and straight on up to the mine site. The pavement will end on the other side of the overpass and you will enter a Limited Use Area. This means that you have to stay on the open roads and trails in the area. If you are traveling with 4WD or high clearance 2WD you can drive all of the way up to the mine. If you are looking to do some riding, the best place to park in on the tank road. You will know it when you get to it as you will suddenly be on a six lane wide dirt highway. Alvord Mountain Road intersects with the tank road on a curve in the tank road. This is a good place to park and unload. Remember, this is a Limited Use Area, so park on the road, not off the road. Don't worry, the tank road is plenty wide.

Watch for BLM Open Route signs when entering area.

Alvord Mine is at center, Spanish Canyon at right.

At this point you will follow the tank road (which is also Alvord Mountain Road) until you come to the next curve in the tank road. The tank road will curve left and Alvord Mountain Road continues straight. In the photos on this article, you will notice a stripe in the Alvord Mountains. This stripe overlooks the mine and is visible all of the way from the Interstate. Just keep going towards the stripe and you will be fine. Alvord Mountain Road is also usually pretty well marked by the BLM with Open Route signs.

Looking West towards the Calico Mountains you will see Coyote Dry Lake.

Just keep heading for the vertical stripe in the mountain.

When you get close to the mouth of the canyon where Alvord Mine is situated, you will see the old well. Just look for trees.

The climb into the canyon.

This is one of the few sites in the area that still contains clearly discernable ruins. As you near the mouth of the canyon you will come across an old tank with some trees. This was the well that supplied Alvord Mine with water. As you enter the canyon you will slowly begin climbing up one side of the canyon wall. Pay close attention to the wash below as there are signs of the wash being used as the original road into the site. At one point you will see the remains of an old security gate in the bottom of the wash.

Remains of an old security gate.

Iron and Steel remains are bountiful in this canyon.

The road up into the canyon twists and turns and goes up and down. Take your time on this section of the road because there is a lot to see. You will begin seeing signs of old rock walls on both sides of the canyon. Some of these were used to shore up ore hauling roads throughout the canyon. Most of these roads are barely discernable, but the further up canyon you go the more you will see. There is also lots of metal debris in the canyon bottom and much of it is recognizable as parts of a mining operation.

The large stone building below Alvord Mine from near the Y in the road.

Y in road is on left. Go right to get to Alvord Mine.

At a certain point you will be able to see a stone building in the distance. Before you get to the stone building you will come to a Y in the road. To access the Alvord Mine go right at the fork.

Continuing past the Y, you will eventually come past the stone ruins. You will only be able to ride or drive a short distance further. Your best bet is to stop below the ruins of the stamp mill and cyanide tanks, as this is a wide spot in the road, and the road is blocked by large rocks about 100 feet further up. At this point you can explore to your hearts content. There are lots of minerals in the area, which means lots of color on the rocks. You will notice that the rocks that came out of the mine show a distinct blue-green tinge that indicates high copper content.

Remains of rock walls are everywhere.

The steep side canyons near Alvord Mine are full of test holes.

It's a long way up if you want to explore.

As you continue up the canyon towards Alvord Mine the road gets narrower.

Always remember to be careful when exploring these types of areas. Some effort was made by the BLM to close off the Alvord Mine, and you will see adits towards the bottom of the mine that are partially open. At the top of the hill there are open shafts, so be aware and be careful.

The lower, outer sections of the mine site are relatively safe. If you climb up to the cyanide tanks, you will be able to make out a path that leads up towards the mine. You can climb from here up to the first turn of the switchback on the old mine road and get a great view looking back out of the valley. You will also be able to see the ruins of another stone building across the canyon, which are difficult to see from the road below. If you decide to venture beyond this point, you are on your own.

Remains of an ore bucket near the base of the old stamp mill.

If you look close you will see man-made rock walls everywhere.

Remains of cyanide tanks are visible from a distance.

The road leads up past the foundation of the stamp mill. BLM has blocked the road just past this point.

One of the best things to do is to stop and look around near the base of the old stamp mill. There are several foundations in the area. Use your imagination and think of what it must have been like to be the first people to mine this area over 120 years ago. The determination and hardships are part of what made this country what it is today.

This is where the road used to go. Towards the top of the photo, the old road switch-backed up the slope.

Looking back from the end of the road you get a sense of the elevation of the mine.

There is a wide variety of metal remains in the wash below the mine.

This is where the 6-Nissan stamps were located.

If you are looking for more exploration, go back to the Y and take the other fork. This road doesn't go very far, but leads to some of the other mining claims that comprise the Alvord Mine. This road is fairly rough, contains large rocks, and is only recommended for experienced riders or high clearance 4WD.

Looking down from the cyanide tanks at various foundations. Bikes are parked at the last wide spot in the road.

Looking across the canyon from Alvord Mine the veins of hard and soft rock are evident.

Looking down the canyon from the cyanide tanks, the remains of another stone building above the road are evident.

Close up of cyanide tanks shows how they were constructed.

Even if you aren't comfortable exploring this road, be sure to stop here and take a look at the canyon walls. This is an intersection of two canyons and the walls are very steep. If you look around, particularly high up, you will see several areas where test holes were dug as miners looked for mineral riches in the area. One can only imagine what it must have been like to climb up and down these steep walls in search of gold.

Old mine road looking down from 2nd switch-back. You can still see old mine timbers at certain locations.

Looking up towards the glory hole.

More stone walls define old miner's paths.

Side adit entrance sealed off by BLM near bottom switch-back.

More foundations near lower switch-back.

As you come back out of the Alvord Mountains you will see an old road leading off to the East along the edge of the Mountains. This is the old connector route that led to other mining claims in the mouth of Spanish Canyon and along the Old Spanish Trail. This is a closed route, so please stay off this road.

Closed route at base of Alvord Mountain.

More mine shafts are evident at the entrance to Spanish Canyon

To access Spanish Canyon and the Old Spanish Trail, follow Alvord Mountain Road back past the old well and down to the powerline road. Go left (East) on the powerline road and follow it until you come to a road leading up into the wash and the canyon just East of the Alvord Mountains. When you head up into the Alvord Mine site you are going up into a very narrow canyon that is not discernable until you get to the mouth of the canyon. When you are back at the powerline road looking back at Alvord, look to the right and you will see a long channel that divides the small Alvord Mountain range from its neighboring range. This is Spanish Canyon, and part of the Old Spanish Trail.

The Old Spanish Trail leading up through Spanish Canyon.

The small canyon East of Spanish Canyon. When you see the talcum deposits you are there. Road drops in to right.

Depending on the time of year and how much water has recently come out of Spanish Canyon, the road may or may not be obvious. For this reason, it is highly recommended that you study a topographical map before attempting this route. Keep in mind that you are on BLM land that is zoned Limited Access. Taking the wrong roads in these areas can lead to large fines and the possibility of having your vehicle impounded. To keep these types of areas open to us all, please take the time to educate yourself about the area and how to legally access the trails.

Once you have located the Old Spanish Trail you can begin making your way up into Spanish Canyon. As you near the mouth of Spanish Canyon you will begin to see lots of signs of prospecting. Again, this area is full of mine shafts, so be very careful if setting out on foot to explore. Also keep in mind that the road between Alvord Mine and Spanish Canyon is closed to vehicles. Although this road might be tempting to explore, do it only on foot.

The Old Spanish Trail follows the sand wash up through the Spanish Canyon. This trail is comprised of relatively deep sand, so is not recommended for 2WD vehicles.

The Old Spanish Trail was active from about 1820 to 1850 as a trading route between Santa Fe, NM and Los Angeles, CA. Once again, take the time to imagine what it must have been like to drag horse drawn wagons over this desert landscape, through the deep sand and over the imposing rock formations.

As you continue on up and through Spanish Canyon you will be rewarded with some greenery and high, steep canyon walls. As you approach the top of the canyon the road will go up over the crest. To the right of the road you will see a cut in the crest that was made by the traders hauling wagons up and over this route.

Remains of miner's cabin and water tank near talcum deposit.

Spring above miner's cabin.

The crest of the canyon is the stopping point for this road. If you continue you will soon enter the boundary of Fort Irwin and be chased down by very serious looking MP's in Humvees that will quickly escort you off of military property.

Instead, take the Old Spanish Trail back down to the mouth of the canyon and hang a left when you see the road that follows the edge of the mountain to the East. This is a continuation of the closed route that leads back to Alvord, but according to BLM maps is open going the other direction. This will lead you on a short route up into the next small canyon to the East of Spanish Canyon. If you follow this route, you will come to a protected pocket that is easy to identify by the large deposit of white mineral in the floor of the pocket.

The road drops down into the pocket. Here you will see signs of camping, if not campers themselves. If you take the road up to the small ridge on the right you will pass the remains of an old miner's cabin with an old water tank and a small stand of trees where the spring bubbles up. Take care to stay on the road in this area. The ground here is very soft and mushy and you could easily become stuck. If you are concerned about getting stuck, park your vehicle where the road drops into the pocket and explore on foot.

This is the end of the road. You are now in a box canyon and the only way out is back the way you came. Take your time and enjoy the ride back. This is a very beautiful and rugged part of the Mojave Desert.

Mojave River bed near Camp Cady.

Bring spares. This is the nearest service station.

Last but not least, when you get back to the powerline road, you may take solace in knowing that you are traveling on part of the old Barstow to Vegas racecourse. And though the race may have disappeared into the annals of history, there is still a group that runs a dual sport ride every year along this historic route.

Desert driving and riding can be dangerous. There are mine shafts and poisonous snakes in these areas. These can be wonderful places to take children to show them the wonders of the desert and teach them about California history, but they can also be treacherous. Be sure to educate yourself before attempting to access these places, and if taking children, be sure to watch them carefully and educate them to the dangers of these types of areas before turning them loose to explore.

The Mojave Desert is also an area of constantly shifting politics, so be sure to contact the BLM before attempting this route to ensure that the areas described in this article are still open to vehicular access.

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