HEADLINE: RIDING IN BAJA

SUBHEAD: DO IT RIGHT

To dirt bikers, the vast peninsula of Baja California is considered the Holy Grail of riding. However, most people never make the trip, because they have no idea how to go about it. Well, my friends, that's about to change.

We'll try to help you have a successful ride, flogging your off-road mount in Baja. Something that lures folks to Baja is that you can put on a backpack and ride for days, never crossing the same trail twice. Riding scenic beaches, enchanting dirt roads, through small villages and single track in the mountains, on the same trip.

Whatever the terrain you're looking for, Baja has it to offer - if you can find it. Even if someone draws you a map to a cool trail, you might never find it.

You see, most dirt roads and trails have no markings as to where they go. This is one of the quirks of riding Mexico. Another problem is getting lost. It happens to everyone who rides Baja. If someone tells you they've never been lost in Baja, they're lying. Something else you need to be aware of is that the routes change rapidly. After each big storm roads are washed out with new routes forming in their place.

When you do get lost here's what's helped us to find our way, look for a ranch sign, or some type of marking, then find it on a map. Depending on the circumstances, you may need to B-line it to the nearest gas station. As you can see, riding Baja is not something you simply just do. There's a tremendous amount of planning involved in having a successful trip.

A solid route plan is a must! Here are a few ways to plan your route:

• AAA's mediocre map will give you an idea of routes you may want to take. If you just want to explore dirt roads, the AAA map will work.
• Kacey Smith is writing a book titled "All About Your Whereabouts Baja GPS Guidebook". We're going to ride sections she describes in her book and report our findings in the coming months.
• There's also the Baja Almanac that is the most widely used to navigate Baja. It has detailed trail maps of Baja, although it seems a few routes in the Almanac don't exist any longer. (Let me clarify that; at least we couldn't find some of 'em.)

While planning your trip, gas stops must be planned well before you need fuel. Once in a while, the gas stations run out of fuel, but in the last year or so, this seems to be on the decline. If a station is out of gas, there's usually someone in the area that will sell you gas out of a 55-gallon drum. Ask around and you'll be pointed in the right direction.

You can expect to pay upward of three+ dollars a gallon for gas from a non-station and about a buck eighty from a station. (Editor's note: There are two grades of gas found in Baja. The green tank is Magna Sin, which is regular unleaded. The red tank dispenses a very good 92 octane gas made by ARCO and shipped to PEMEX. Even though the red Premium gas is more expensive - about two bucks per gallon - bikes are very happy with this fuel.)

An alternative to the first time Baja rider is to hire a tour guide service. We've crossed paths with many of the tour companies while riding. Baja Bound stands out, with Baja 500 and 1000 champion, Tim Morton, guiding the rides. Baja Bound has a stable of XR's with a top-notch support team. You can e-mail Baja Bound at: bajaboundmoto@abac.com

Venturing off U.S. soil into Mexico is intimidating, but can be done with minimal hassle, if you know what to expect. As you cross the border into Mexico, they will stop you and ask to see the registration to your bike. Be sure to have the original!

Resist the urge to simply pay off the secondary inspection officer to let your bike into Baja if you don't have the proper papers, as you could be asked for papers further south in your ride. Do it right and you will not have problems later on.

Why are the Baja officials so tough about having the right papers? It's to keep people from stealing bikes in the US and bringing them into Mexico to sell. So their concern is legit.

Dirt roads of Baja are heaven to dirt bikers, but you need to be aware that the locals use these roads to get from one place to another, and they have their own road rules. You should always be cautious going around blind corners; this is one of the largest reasons riders get hurt in Baja.

Often, riders go too fast and fail to look ahead, then hit an oncoming vehicle. Get in the habit of looking for dust trails that an oncoming vehicle creates.

Here are few common courtesies that need to be followed whenever riding Baja:

• If you come to a gate, make sure to close it after passing through. (Most gates in Baja are barbed wire wrapped around a post.)
• If the gate has a lock on it, GO AROUND! DO NOT CUT THE FENCE! Some of the landowners don't want you crossing their property.
• If you come across an open range with livestock, slow down and pass quietly. Keep in mind that you are a guest in Mexico and you need to be respectful of the residents.
• Something that will make your day is to bring candy and stickers for the kids. As the kids hear the bikes coming, they run outside just to watch you pass by. Stop and give them a treat and watch their faces light up.

For those who are afraid to head south of the border due to legends they've heard, here are some valuable questions and answers:

Q: What happens if I'm injured, or in an accident in Baja?

A: In our many travels to Baja, we've only experienced minor injures that a first aid kit could handle. If you do need serious medical attention, this is what the Mexican Consulate General says:

"Contrary to the law in the United States, a person deemed at fault in an accident in Mexico must post bond before he or she can be released, to ensure that payment is made for any damages."

"Fault" is tricky to determine, since the laws of Mexico are different from the U.S. If you're not at fault or crash hard, you still need to pay for treatment before leaving Baja. Contact your healthcare provider and check if your insurance is valid in Mexico. More often than not, you must simply pay for treatment you need and have your insurance company reimburse you when you return.

Medical treatment in Baja is better than you might think. Even though the hospital might not be as modern and fancy as what we're used to seeing in the US, the doctors are well trained and can handle most normal injuries just fine. Some years back a French journalist broke his arm badly in two places. The Mexican hospital treated the man and casted the broken arm. Total cost was $75.

The journalist then went to a hospital in San Diego to get checked out. After x-rays and treatment, they noted that the arm was cast "just fine" and there was no need for anything further. They also gave the journalist a bill for over $2000. Whoops!

The gray area of injured parties not being sent home to the U.S. before payment has set the San Diego County Board of Supervisors into action. "On October 19, 1999 they requested that the federal government help to improve the emergency protocol between Mexico and San Diego's public and private health care providers. The aim is to come up with procedures that can be used when Americans need to be taken back to the United States for emergency medical treatment."

Q: You can't drink the water in Mexico, so how do you carry enough water?

A: No one drinks the tap water and you shouldn't either. However, purified water is available just about everywhere, including the larger Pexmex gas stations. Restaurants always serve bottled water.

Q: I've heard horror stories that the Banditos of Baja will rip me off! Is it safe to ride Baja?

A: According to statistics from the 1990 Federal Bureau of Investigations (FBI), U.S. Statistical Analysis, and the statistics available in Baja, California, Mexico, the index of crime was lower in Ensenada, BC, Mexico than in any of the 7000+ US cities surveyed. Mexico City, the world's largest city, has less than 1/2 the incidence of crime per capita than San Diego, and less than 1/3 the incidence of crime currently being committed in Los Angeles, CA." Feel safer about riding Baja? Good!

Here are some things you should know if you're planning a trip. While riding on the dirt roads, it is entirely possible that you will come across vehicles that appear to be broken down, with folks trying to get you to stop. Don't stop simply wave as you go by. (Veteran Baja riders do stop in certain situations but a "rookie" should keep going". The likelihood of them wanting to do you harm is extremely low, but the bad guys don't wear name tags.

Once in a while, robberies do happen in Baja and these are two that we know about. In 1998, Baja motorcycle racer, Johnny Campbell, was robbed at gunpoint outside of Valley De Trinadad, during pre-running.

At the time of this writing I received e-mail from a very well respected Baja racer to inform us that four riders were robbed south of Tecate at the El Rayo junction. No one was hurt in ether of these incidents, but it's scary to hear about these occurrences, even if they aren't the "norm."

The Mexican Government realizes that off-roaders help their economy. Nevertheless, the lack of communication in the Mexican system of administration hinders us from finding out what's being done to stop this sort of thing.

Another bit of advice, is to stay on routes that other rider's take, otherwise, you might come across something no one wants you to see, comprende? Remember that there are drugs being smuggled through Baja to the U.S. If this pessimistic jabber has you shaking in your boots, put it into perspective. Turn on the local news and see how many crimes are committed within a few miles of your home.

One way to waste money, is by using U.S. dollars to buy gas and supplies at small stores. The exchange rate fluctuates daily and the mom and pop stores don't keep track of the rates (usually nine pesos to the dollar is the rate store use). The best thing to do is simply exchange money before going into Mexico and that way you avoid the whole exchange rate hassle. (This can be done just before most border crossings.) The majority of establishments have prices clearly marked in pesos and if you don't understand Spanish they'll show you the price on a calculator. Just make sure you get your money from a "cambio" that does not charge a fee, or commission, for the money exchange.

Something that's new and confusing is the "Tourist Card." What you're suppose to do is get this card, fill it out, go to a bank in Mexico and pay $15.00 U.S. for it to be valid. According to the LA Times, you only need this card if venturing south of San Quintin. Your best bet is to call the Mexican Department of Tourism and find out what the deal is before heading to Baja. Since no one is enforcing this (as of this writing), the government may repeal the whole thing, as it doesn't seem to working.

The Mexican Department of Tourism can be contacted at:

2401 W. 6th St., 5th Floor
Los Angeles, CA 90057
(213) 351-2069

This is obvious, but we'll say it anyway. Be sure your motorcycle is in perfect mechanical condition! You're not going to find a M/C shop within walking distance. So you'll need to rely on your fanny pack to get you going in case of a break down.

Use your head, tread lightly and you'll have the adventure of a lifetime in Baja!