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DIRE
WARNINGS AND THINGS YOU OUGHT TO KNOW
If you choose to email a
question to this forum, then you must conduct yourself accordingly. Therefore,
the following rules are in order:
- 1. Do not write
your email to me IN CAPS. If you do so, I will print out your question and
do terrible things to it.
- 2. Do not
request a personal email response. Since I get thousands of questions each
month, trying to answer them all would cut deeply into my leisure time,
which I value more than your current state of confusion.
- 3. Try to spell
at least in a semi-correct fashion. If you choose to mangle the English
language, expect no mercy from this quarter. You might be mocked severely.
- 4. Do not ask
for me to send you copies of my many manuals and literature. I am not in the
library business, nor do I want to spend the bulk of my day at the copy
machine just because you're too lazy to ask your dealer, or look around a
bit.
- 5. Don't bother
me with truly stupid questions, like how to get 50 more horsepower
for a buck and a half
- 6. Now that you
know the rules, think carefully and have at it!
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1986 HONDA XR 600
A friend of mine is looking to buy a 1986 XR 600. I told him that it
probably weighs 100 lbs. more than a 90-95 2-stroke dirt bike. I think
that he would be happier with the newer 2-stroke. XR600 price = $750;
newer 250 2-stroke = $1500. I would like to find out the weight of a
1986 XR 600.
Roxane
Ready
to ride, an XR600 weighs slightly over 300 pounds, depending on the
model. A typical two-stroke hits the scales about 225 dry and 235-240
ready to ride.
However,
don't write the XR off that quickly. Sure, it's heavy. But if you buy
one in good shape, it'll be stone-axe reliable and fun to ride. Unless
you're racing, I would consider the XR first.
***
1990 XT 350 YAMAHA
hi, please help me, i took my old i guest gas lines off the carburetor
but forgot how they go back,there are some holes for the overflow i
heard,i do see two places that you can tell a line goes there,but i want
to be sure,thanks so much.
Jasmia
My
suggestion is that you take those gas lines and tie knots in them and
hook them up anywhere you feel like. This will absolutely guarantee
that the bike will no longer run, which is a good thing. Because if
you ride anything like you write, your life is in danger.
***
MORE FROM BEAU
DIRT
Dude! I mean Super.
Beau Dirt here! I'm really glad you liked my last Tip of the Month
enough to post it. I have a ton more to share.
Ya know, we met a long time ago at Blackwater. I was one of the fleas on
the mud hill. You were on some Maico-breako with an engine big-enuf to
plow fields. Hell, the damn cylinder on that sled was bigger than a
jumbo box of welding rods. You know? Big!
You tried to get
up that greasy old hill and the Breako wheelied
back on ya and pinned your ass to the ground. Hell, ya woulda died from
drowin in the mud if me and my cousin didn't hoist that pig off your
head.
The size of that
Breako and the way it had you pinned kinda reminds me of that 4x4 quad
that killed my neighbor. Of course, me and my cousin weren't around to
lift it offa him. He's dead now. His wife gave the quad to his brother.
I don't think she liked him much either.
There's a big
white cross with some Budswizer cans stuck to it down in the hollar
where he died. Darn 4 wheelers will freakin kill ya. I'm glad we agree
on that.
Oh ya. You said you were gonna make an article about us. Well, ya never
did but, that was a long time ago anywayz.
Anyway, here my
next Hot Tip. This one's gooood!
Problem: It's riding time! Which, really isn't a problem, now is it?
Unfortunately, your dog ate the foam element for you air filter whilst
you left it out to dry after a trip through the washing machine. Ever
see a dog poop air filter foam. Bad? real bad! Serves that a**hole
right! Right?
Fix: Fortunately
the dog didn't eat the screen in the center. Just mangled it a bit. Most
dogs won't eat steel. Straighten this thing out and find yourself a good
old, skimpy t-shirt that doesn't have to many holes. Don't use those
heavy shirts like Fruit of The Loom and such. They just don't flow
enough air, even for my old CT-1.
Nope, use one of the ones the missus got from Walmart. They're all made
in China and are as skimpy as all get out. Anyway, wrap that t-shirt
around the outside of the screen and tie it into place or tuck it under
the filter edge (depends on the filter). Squirt a little WD-40 on it and
ya got a homemade K&N air filter.
WARNING: This
filter is good for a day's ride then ya gotta clean it or throw it away.
Then again, you'll probably have time to go to the Honda Shop and get a
real filter before you ride again.
See ya next month
Dude!
Beau Dirt
Salvisa, KY
Our friend, Beau Dirt, is acquiring quite a
following with his home-spun humor and real-world usable advice. But
let me add my own personal air filter emergency deal to the mix. Just
stop by any hardware store and you'll find a whole bunch of foam
filters for shop vacuums and many of them are just the right size and
shape for a dirt bike filter cage. I've found this trick to work
especially well on vintage dirt bike filters.
***
HIGHLY TECHNICAL
QUESTION
how do u do clutch plates on dt 125 1983 model
Andrew
I
usually brown them lightly with some olive oil in a sauce pan, then
season with salt and pepper. Then, using a non-stick pan, bake for 40
minutes at 325 degrees.
***
MIXING RATIO
i was wondering what i should mix my gas to on a 1989 Kawasaki KDX - the
ratio.
K. Taylor
Since
I use 32:1 - the ratio - you should also use - the ratio. Good Lord,
Taylor! Did someone steal your CAP key from your computer?
***
SUBJECT: YZ250
My 1990 YZ250 stumbles at low mid range, then takes off. It idles fine
with 1 size lower pilot and the mix screw out 1/2 turn. The main is
stock. The top end is fine.
I tried replacing the main with 1 size bigger. The stumble got smaller
but still present.
* The needle is in the middle setting.
* The reeds look fine.
* Oil drips from the exhaust pipe after running.
* Carb is clean.
* Choke works.
* Top end reworked has about 10-15 hours on it with good compression.
* Could this be the exhaust valve?
* How do I test?
Calvin
Before
you start swapping jets, you have to understand the basic concept of
jetting. Without going into a complete treatise here, consider the
following:
The
pilot jet controls starting and low air speed mixing. It also
contributes about 5% of the total flow of most carbs. So if you have a
hesitation right off the bottom, you should consider jetting changes
here.
The
needle jet ( and needle) control mid-range flow and response.
The
main jet controls flow above mid-range and at peak rpm.
You
should never try to correct a low-speed or mid-range fault by changing
the main jet. In fact, the main jet is the LAST JET you should change
when dialing in a carb.
If
you can get the carb to respond cleanly off idle and work well in the
mid-range, then dialing in the main jet is an absurdly easy task.
***
YAMAHA IT465
Hey Rick,
I just found your site doing a search for info on my Yamaha IT465
I have just purchased this bike ($250). It seemed to run well but it
started very hard and leaked gas from the carb.
It needs some other help...There is a crack in the plastic tank on the
side. It is missing the baffle insert, etc., also many bolts appear to
have rattled off of this 2-stroke demon... mostly things I think I can
fix or replace.
It had been sitting for the last 8+years and they wanted to get rid of
it.
Lucky me! I use to ride a YZ125 and a PE 175 growing up.
It's been a few years since I have had a bike. I was interested in this
because I thought it was an enduro...
But after checking
into it, I may not be able to license this for road...?
Here are a few questions I have for you:
* Can you tell me anything about this bike - I have been able to find
very little.
* When I first got this bike running it needed some carb work. It was
leaking gas and started very hard. I had to use starting fluid to get it
to kick over. ( I got in there and cleaned the float and carb and
replaced the
jets.) My problem is now that I have monkey-ed around with the screw for
the fuel I don't know where it was suppose to be set.
I have a Clymer manual for it and the book refers to number of turns for
each of the different sizes but doesn't list anything for the 465.
When I first got it running it had arm jerking power - I would hardly
turn the gas 1/4 turn and it would lift the front and take off like
lightning.
Now I have to really gas it and it just doesn't seem to have the power
since I messed around with the carb.
Can you give me some suggestions?
One more question: the bike will kill on me and almost act like it isn't
getting any power or gas. I can't seem to find anything wrong in the
fuel system. Any suggestions?
I am sure you have much better things to do than answer my questions,
but I would appreciate any help you can give since it will be spring
soon. I would like to get this bad boy running again.
Thanks
Nathin D.
The
IT 465 is a pure enduro bike, and will not be street legal in most
states. I believe Oregon is one of the states that will license PEs
and ITs.
As
far as the air screw goes, 1 ? to 1 ? turns out should do it.
Regarding
jetting: Chances are if you "replaced" the jets that were in
the carb, you screwed up the jetting. If the engine is mechanically
OK, then putting the stock jetting back in should get you in the
ballpark. The Clymer manual should give you that jetting.
Your
last statement gives me a clue that you are having a gas starvation
problem with the bike. I would check the following:
Fuel petcock.
Gas cap vent
Float needle seat
Float height
Clogged pilot jet or clogged pilot jet passage hole
***
GAS TANK RUST CURE
Hi Rick, great web site.
I'm rebuilding a 1980 Suzuki TS 100. The gas tank has light rust all
over the inside and a very minor dent in the side. Otherwise, the bike
is extremely clean. What is the best and cheapest way to treat the rust?
What do I need to do to get rid of the existing rust and prevent future
rust? I'd hate to junk a decent tank when I don't have to. Looking
forward to hearing from you.
Matt
Pasadena, CA
If
the rust is light, here's a trick that works nicely. Remove the tank
from the bike, take the petcock off, and run a bolt or piece of soft
wood into the petcock opening to keep anything from leaking out.
Get
a quart jar full of clean pea-gravel and dump it inside your gas tank,
then tape the gas cap opening shut.
Now,
start shaking the gas tank like a wild man. It helps best if you have
a friend to help you do this. It's worlds easier with two people;
preferably two dumb and strong ones.
After
you've shaken the tank for ten minutes or so, dump everything out on
some newspaper and you'll see a whole bunch of rust chips and
particles evident.
Hand
pick the pea gravel out of the mess (leaving the rust on the paper)
and throw it back into the tank. Now pour some basic kerosene or paint
thinner into the tank and seal everything up again.
Repeat
the shaking process until all the rust has been removed from the tank,
or until you pass out from exhaustion. Dump all the gravel and
kerosene out, and then wash the tank out completely with soap and
water.
When
done, blow the moisture out with air.
Then
spray a little WD-40 or other light lubricant in the tank to prevent
any rust from forming.
When
you're actually using the bike, run a small bit of oil in the gas tank
with the oil ( a teaspoon per tank will do) as premix. We're assuming
your bike uses straight gas and uses oil injection. That should do it.
***
NO FREE LOVE!
i love in staten island and we need some places where i can ride my bike
BlazzNMike
Most
Staten Island lovers usually ride through nudist colonies wearing only
helmets and a large smile.
***
SPEED SHIFTING OFF
THE GATE.
When I start off of the gate in a race I always start in first gear.
When I do so, it seems hard to shift up into second after about twenty
yards or so. People try to tell me to start in second gear, but it seems
once you dump the clutch, you will lose all of your RPM.
They tell me,
"Well, if you start in second gear it will be easier to switch up
to third."
This is true, but
you will get burned off of the gate because you lose all of your RPM
when you dump the clutch.
So would there be
something we can do to our bike, motor, or transmission to make it
easier to shift? Just use our clutch? Or just start in second gear?
I wasn't sure how
to word this question, but I hope you understood what I was trying to
say. I just thought I would ask you because people ALWAYS ask me and I
don't know what to say so, "I thought I would ask the KING."
Robbie Adams
I
was a painfully average starter until I attended one of Gary Bailey's
motocross schools. After that school, I started getting an amazing
percentage of hole-shots.
The key to the start was, indeed, using second gear. But the
"secret" to getting the start was slipping the clutch
brutally, not dumping it.
My
starting technique was simple:
Line
up in a clean area behind the gate.
Raise
the rpm on the bike to an rpm range that will allow second gear to
pull. Do not blip the throttle in and out.
When
the gate drops, release the clutch - but not all the way. Keep the
clutch lever very close to the release point. Slip it just enough to
keep the rpm in the fat part of the power curve.
This
will let the bike charge straight and true out of the gate, while
others are popping unwanted wheelies, or slithering all over the
place.
If your front end tries to come up, slip the clutch just enough to
keep the wheel down.
If
the engine starts to bog a bit, slip it harder.
The
idea is to keep the engine singing and the bike pulling straight.
Shift
into third when you hear or feel the engine vibration telling you it's
time.
You should now have achieved a good, solid start.
***
RMX 250
I find it hard to find parts and graphics for my 1997 RMX 250 and I want
to know if the RM 250 and RMX 250 are the same except for the gearing.
Can you interchange parts on the two?
Thank you
Jim from North Jersey
Jim,
the RMX is the enduro version of the RM, and all of the engine parts
are interchangeable. The RMX is a strangled-down bike, and should have
the air intake and exhaust baffles removed for maximum performance.
This will also require a jetting change. Your local Suzie dealer will
have the correct jetting advice for your area.
As
to graphics? Well, I think the 97 RM line had ugly graphics.
Personally, I would strip the bike down to bare yellow plastic and
apply a few tasteful stickers.
***
HARLEY?
Hey I was reading your help column and noticed a question from a kid
named Harley. He seemed really excited to be able to ride his YZ-80,
excited enough to write to you with an interesting story along with a
question.
You however were
an ***hole. Criticizing this kid for his spelling? You couldn't even
answer his question regarding cleaning his bike after a days ride. If
his spelling was too much for you to handle then why did you even bother
publishing his question on your website with the thousands of other
e-mails you receive. EET S**T F********
Russ Downing
You
misspelled a word, Russ. It's not EET; it's EAT. Now, let's address
the kid named Harley. His letter was so poorly written and so filled
with wretched slovenly errors, that it displayed his lazy nature. I
simply will not tolerate that. If the kid had put at least a
half-hearted effort in his missive, I would have chided him gently
and, indeed, even answered his question.
Sloth begets sloth.
***
PW 50 JUMPER!
Dear Rick,
My 5 year old has a PW 50 which, in general, seems to be an OK
bike for him. The problem is when he jumps the bike, even over small
bumps, the rear springing/damping is totally inadequate. The fork seems
OK, but the rear is truly pathetic.
Since he's already
adequately spoiled, I do not intend on buying him better equipment (at
least for awhile). I was considering drilling a hole in the shock body
and filling it with 90 weight then putting a plug back in, but I wonder
if there's even any valving in the shocks. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bob Milder
Before
you whip out the drill, consider measuring the eye-to-eye length of
the shock, then hunting in the bike junkyards for a shock of the same
length, but with a heavier spring. If you see that the shock came from
a heavier bike, then chances are the damping is also heavier to match
the spring.
Failing
that, you can do the hole-drilling oil swap, but you'll find that 20
weight will probably be enough. One last tip: cut one coil off the
spring on the PW and it'll increase the spring rate.
***
SUBJECT:
QUESTION
In your rules, you say:
"Do not write
your email to me IN CAPS. If you do so, I will print out your question
and do terrible things to it."
WHAT WILL YOU DO
TO THIS?
Ian Briddell
Briddell, I just returned from the bathroom, and
was forced to wash my hands with lacquer thinner after doing something
truly terrible to your email. Since this is a family site, protocol
forbids me from going in to detail as to what I did. Let's just say
that the dog saw what I did and is still laughing.
***
RT 180
One of the piston rings flew off inside and scratched the walls so if i
bore it i will probably need a new cylender do you think so. and the
bike is a 1993 rt 180 yamaha dirt bike
No Name Given
And
people wonder why I drink! Listen up, No Name. If your tolerances were
loose enough to let a ring fly off, chances are the cylinder is so
worn it will only work as a pencil holder. One last thing: when you do
go out and buy your new "cylender" at the local shop, stop
at the local elementary school first and have a third-grader teach you
how to spell "cylinder."
***
RMX 250 CARB CLUES
Hi Rick,
I just bought a Suzuki RMX250 (93') and for a while it ran fine.
But I don't know
much about bikes, and one morning when it wouldn't start, I turned a
screw on the carburetor thinking it was the tickover screw.
When I eventually
got it started, it wasn't running right at all. It splutters and cuts
out and when I turn the accelerator, it doesn't pick up speed; it just
carries on spluttering. It was smoking a lot and my first thought was
that I had put too much 2 stroke in with the petrol, therefore I added
some more petrol to the tank and this made no difference.
I have been told
by a friend that I accidentally changed the fuel mixture on the
carburetor and this is what is making it not run right. I don't know if
this is the correct reason?
But if so, can you
tell me how I can sort the problem out because I haven't got a clue.
If you don't know
what to do could you please forward this e-mail to
somebody who could give me some advice and I would be most grateful.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Cheers
Leon Bray
While
you could/can change the air screw mixture a bit, you cannot make
dramatic changes in jetting by doing this. What more than likely
happened was this:
You had a plug foul and/or you had fuel leak into the bottom end.
Your
bike has worn parts; could be rings, or even something as simple as
worn reeds.
You
might even have a clogged filter.
Then
there's also the possibility of crud or water in your float bowl,
which would clog jets and making starting hard.
Fist
things first, Leon. Get a manual and read it. Your ham-fisted approach
to correcting things is wrong, wrong, wrong! If you were sitting in a
rocket getting ready to launch off to Mars, would you start beating on
the dashboard with your shoe if the engine didn't ignite? I rest my
case.
***
MORE 490'S
Dear Super Hunky,
This is great. I finally get to tap that large brain of yours. I have a
project bike a (1985) YZ490 and I know you don't like them; thats fine.
My question is will the newer 5 speed model engine fit in the 4
speeders' frame or is there an exhaust location problem? Thanx for your
time and help....keep twisting the loud handle.
Mike Elijah
All
of the 490 cases will swap into any frame that carried a 490 engine.
Still, there's a better way to get five gears. Simply put an IT 490 (enduro)
gearbox in the YZ 490 cases.
***
HONDA MR 250
Dear Mr. Sieman
I have a 1976 Honda MR 250 which I recently restored to riding
condition. It's a great old bike, and I was wondering if you knew where
to find some of its missing parts. The rubber intake boot has a crack in
it and I can't find one anywhere. Also I was wondering about where to
find the enduro lights which was originally on it.
You wrote that desert pilots used to modify theirs with CR parts. What
parts are you talking about, and what year CR is this compatible with.
also I was wondering if the vintage white fenders in the White Brothers
catalog would fit properly. Is there a less restrictive spark arrestor
muffler I can use? Sorry for all the questions, but I've looked all over
and have received little help.
Thank you for your time,
John Jimkoski.
Since the rubber boots are so hard to come by,
you will have to repair it. Remove and thoroughly clean the boot in
hot soapy water, then let it air dry. Repair the crack with a black
rubber bonding cement available at any auto parts store. It's sold by
the tube and works well, but keep an eye on it.
Regarding
the MR/CR swaps: most of the guys who ran the CRs in the desert used
the wide ratio gearbox from the MR. They also ran the ignition,
lighting coils and heavier flywheels.
Not
too sure about the fenders. Give the WB boys a call. You can check
with DG for a better muffler/spark arrestor.
***
OLD JUNKERS
Dear Mr. Sir,
I am looking for an old 80cc bike that needs work. I prefer an old
Yamaha from 1975 - 1990. What would the price be on a bike like this?
Sincerely,
Hunting Hunter
For
something like that, free would be about right. Seriously, Hunter,
bikes like that are everywhere for next to nothing. However, I would
recommend that you spend a few extra bucks and get one in decent
running condition. Look for bikes in the $100 to $200 range.
***
OLDER LOOKING RT
180
hi there i just picked up an rt 180 from a guy for a hundred bucks. the
only problem i found with it is that the piston is busted and the chain
is shot. i'v searched the bike over for some sign of how to tell the
year. is there any way to tell from the frame number? i appreciate your
time in reading and answering this question.
Hi
there yourself. You can find the information on the model and year by
checking on the steering head. Now do me a favor, and the next time
you write, at least make a half-hearted attempt at using The Cap Keys
where appropriate.
***
LEAKY PIPE/SPARK
ARRESTOR
Hello Rick,
What is your best recommendation to cure the "leaky" condition
between a pipe and spark arrestor. I have a 1998 CR250R that exhibits
this problem.
Much Thanks,
Mitch
My approach to this problem is simple: clean the
pipe tip and the inside of the spark arrestor tube properly. Make sure
the pipe tip is down to bare metal with no paint. Your last cleaning
should be done with contact cleaner spray.
Then
simply apply high temperature silicone and let it dry. Most auto shops
carry a good selection of this stuff. Permatex makes a good one. Use
the red version.
***
INFORMATION SOURCE
Hi Rick.
I need information manual on Honda XR75 Honda 1984. I need to know about
timing chain, diagrams, prints on rebuilding...etc...Please help.
Emery
Oh really? Well, why don't I just spend the next
half day copying all of that information from my manuals, and mail it
to you. Or maybe I could just ask you to go buy a damn manual? No ?
that would be rude of me. Last thought: would you like me to send you
all the gaskets you might need with the information packet? Please let
me know, as I don't want to disappoint you.
***
HI NEED AN ANSWER
Friend of mine just got this crapy 1979 yz 125 for like 60 bucks he got
it running.I have a 1990 rm 80.I didnt not get to see my 80 run yet
because im getting a rim fixed for it.But which one of the 2 would win
in a race.Info about the bikes both stocked but the kid who had the bike
before me said the 80 is bored to 100 and it has power bands.Well i
would really like to know what you think about the whole thing ??who
would win?
No Name Given
Just when I think the emails cannot possibly get
any dumber, here comes one for the ages! My vote goes for the guy with
the "crapy" YZ 125. At least his pile of junk is running.
Last
little point for you to mull over: a "power band" is nothing
more than a description of how the power is delivered. In other words,
does it have a lot of low-end torque, or is it a high-revving engine,
or perhaps a mid-range motor.
***
SO YOU WANT A
"BIRTBIKE"
dear rick,
i really want a dirt bike but i am only 12 years old and i always wanted
a dirtbike but i dont got a lot of money.i alwayed loved birtbikes from
day one,i was wondering if mybe you could tell me where or how i could
get one really cheap like in between 100.00 , 120.00 dollars pleas help
i really want on dirt bike it is my dream the kick start a dirtbike and
just race it around my yard and get a breeze. pleas help!!
your friend
michael. :)
Sigh.
Look, kid. If you want a dirt bike, you must understand a few things:
First, learn how to spell what you're riding. It is not birtbike - it
is dirt bike!
Next,
understand that even if you buy a "birtbike" for a cheap
price, it's still going to cost money to run and maintain it. Earn
some money washing cars, cutting lawns ? things like that ? and
save that money for a decent dirt bike. If you're not willing to do
that, then you don't deserve one.
Lastly,
if you do get that "birtbike," please don't ride it around
your yard and irritate the neighbors.
***
HISTORY
OF HONDA DIRT BIKES
Great article Rick. I feel old! I can remember all these bikes new, and
have ridden my share from the Z-50, XR-75, TL-125, TL-250, CR's, etc.,
right up to my new 650R. Being familiar with some British and Spanish
iron too, you hit the nail right on the head. There were and are a lot
of great bikes out there, but the best are the ones you just kick over
and ride, time after time!
Yes,
it's too bad about the so called trials "boom" of the mid
70's! I love the sport. Except now I could sell my (relatively) rare
TL-250 many times over in my travels to different vintage trials events.
Where exactly are these warehouses of unsold TL's again?!!
Thanks
and keep up the great work!
Regards, Doug Hunter
Thanks
for the kind words. That article drew a large volume of mail from many
folks who grew up with the reliable Hondas.
***
SUBJECT: POOR
GRAMMAR AND REPREHENSIBLE SPELLING.
Dear Mr Sieman:
When I am not thinking of new and indifferent ways to hurt myself on my
2002 project KdX500, I get to play the role of Computer Network
Engineer at a ten thousand student public school.
Early in my
career, when I was just a "Windows" wiper I was installing a
word processing program in a student computer laboratory. As I was
installing this program I was presented a list of options querying me
about installing spell check, thesaurus or a grammar checking
sub-programs.
So, realizing that
I was not a one hundred thousand dollar a year
educator I decided that any decision I made would effect the processes
of young minds and that really wasn't my place; I ripped off an e-mail
to the aforementioned educator. Should I install these applets?
Answer: (to my
amazement) Yes
Justification? The
students will learn how to spell properly and use
correct grammar as a result of these programs.
Ya thinc this
wurks? 2 bad my e-mail cli'ant duznt have a spell
czecking sub-rutine so I am not responcible I cant wright-clik on the
underlined werd and choose the wrong option. What du U mean when u say
the word was wrong becuz it's a homonid%
'nuff sed?
Mark Simpkins
Well
done, Mark!
***
CHEMISTRY LESSON
Greeting Mr. Super Hunky.
You wrote to a reader about charging his shocks and stated the
following:
"Air will
work, but it will tend to degrade the shock fluid, unlike nitrogen,
which is an inert gas of the noble gas family. You could take the
shock..."
Actually, Nitrogen
gas (N2) is a diatomic molecule (the stable elemental form of nitrogen
consisting of two atoms) in group 5A of the periodic table. By
definition, all noble gases are elements in group 8A of the periodic
table that include gases such as Helium, Neon, Argon, Krypton, Xenon and
Radon.
An honest mistake
I'm sure. You're still the bomb with respect to motos.
John de la Cuesta
CSU Long Beach
Dept. of Biological Sciences (I've taken a lot of Chemistry too)
Wow! When I get correct, I GET CORRECTED!
Thanks, John.
***
SHAMELESS PLUG
Sitting right here in my well-lit offices is a
small number of the very first issue of Dirt Bike Magazine. They're in
mint condition and ready for the collectors out there. Cost is $150,
including shipping, and each issue of Volume 1, Number 1 comes
autographed by the editor - me. This makes the ideal Christmas gift for
someone who enjoys living in the past.
Here's the source:
Rick Sieman
Racing
4492 Camino de la Plaza #1251
San Ysidro, CA 92173
Check or Money
Order OK - No plastic
Order one today and keep me from a life of crime
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